WatchSpeak

The world of watch collecting has its own lingo that insiders use to share information quickly and efficiently. We're breaking down the key words and phrases you might see or hear, so you can understand them too.

The word "accessories" refers to the items that accompany the watch beyond the timepiece itself when it is sold brand new from the brand boutique or the Authorized dealer's store. Within the context of pre-owned watches, the presence or absence of these can significantly affect both value and collectability. As for "Provenance", it really is about knowing/understanding where the watch came from, if it had any history with important figures, or if it came through a reputable dealer or auction house. Here-below a break down of the most common terminology:

Naked / Watch Only: In the context of buying and selling pre-owned luxury watches, "naked" refers to a watch sold without its original box, papers, or accessories. It typically includes just the watch itself, often at a lower price due to the absence of these additional items. Buyers may seek "naked" watches for affordability, while sellers may offer them if the original documentation is lost or unavailable. A naked watch should always come from a very trustworthy source as it could be a stolen timepiece or even, a Frankenstein.

Full set: Also "Complete set" implies that the watch comes with the box and original papers as well as any other accessories the watch had with it when acquired brand new. 

Original Papers: These would refer to all the original papers that were provided with the watch when it was originally sold brand new. The warranty card/certificate being the most important one. Besides the warranty, you may have a user's manual, a catalogue, a registration form, etc...

Service papers: Just like for a car, when a watch is serviced by the Authorized Service Center or by the brand, there is a set of paperwork  that is provided once the watch is returned to its owner. The most important of them would be the detailed service recap that shows what was done on the watch, which parts were replaced, if the watch was polished, etc... There usually is a service warranty that goes along and it is mentioned in this same document. The second paper - a lot less important - would be the invoice. 

Archive Extract: An increasing number of brands are in a position to track down in their archives the history of a watch. In the case of Vintage watches or just discontinued timepieces, it may happen that over time, the original papers got lost. In this instance, a number of brands such as Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet can issue, after confirmation of ownership, an extract from their archives that would confirm the authenticity of the piece, when it was made, etc...

CPO Card: CPO is a relative new term in the industry and stands for "Certified Pre-Owned". As an increasing number of brands are getting also in the business of pre-owned timepieces, they start buying back or trading in watches from their clients. Once acquired again, these watches go through a full service to make sure they are in the best possible condition before being offered on the market again. As they are pre-owned, they don't get the original - and expired - guarantee, but rather a CPO card or document that also carries a warranty.

Extras: Some brands provide extra straps, a travel pouch, a loupe, a Pin-pusher in the case of certain complications, etc...

Pin-Pusher: This small accessory is always delivered with watches that require some adjustment when setting the timepiece. It is used to push a inward button that is on the side of the case. It is often required for calendar watches and moonphase complications.

Condition is one of the most important factors influencing value, alongside provenance (papers, box, service history) and rarity. The word refers to the overall state of the watch — both mechanically and cosmetically — compared to how it was when new. It takes into account case and bracelet wear, dial/originality, crystal, movement health, and whether the watch has been polished or serviced. Different marketplaces and dealers use slightly different gradings, but here’s a widely recognized framework with small, practical definitions:

N.O.S.: These initials stand for New Old Stock. It refers to a watch that was never sold to an end-user, but may have been sold between pre-owned watch dealers.

New / Shopworn: This would be a brand new watch that may have some very light, almost invisible, signs of wear due to in-store handling or customers trying the watch.

New / Unworn: These would be watches that are in the same condition than when they came out of production.
 

Mint / Like new / Slider: This means that the watch was very rarely worn or used. It would not have any visible markings, scratches or dings to the naked eye and the bracelets may have been resized. To a untrained eye of a layman, it could pass as brand new.

Excellent: This would be a timepiece that has been lightly worn but carefully maintained and stored. It may have some minor surface scratches or swirls that would be visible only under close inspection. These would not have any major dent and should work perfectly. The other elements of the watch such as the dial, the hands, and the crystal would also be in excellent condition. The only real visible sign of light wear would be on the bracelet or the strap. The case has probably not been polished, but if so, only the one time, allowing the edges and lugs to retain their original sharpness.
 

Very Good: This would be a watch that was regularly worn but well cared for and well stored when unworn. It would have some noticeable hairlines and scratches, possibly even a few tiny dings. The watch should run very smoothly though but could required a light service to change the oils inside the movement. Dial and hands remain clean, no visible damage. Unless specified otherwise, the case has likely been polished once or twice, but the edges remain somewhat sharp.

Good: This would be a watch that has evident signs of wear — scratches, nicks, and possibly some fading on the dial and/or the hands which normally adds to the charm of the watch overall. The Bracelet or strap will show stretch, wear or sign of sweat on the inside of the strap. The watch case - or the head - has likely been polished multiple times, and the edges not as crisp. Mechanically, this watch is probably in need of a service. The watch remain presentable and wearable.

Fair: This would be a watch with some heavy wear that is visible: deep scratches, dents, faded bezel, stretched bracelet, faded dial and hands, worn out strap.The dial or hands may even show patina, discoloration, or lume degradation (which can be quite an asset in the context of a vintage watch). The movement runs but service history uncertain and a service would be necessary. These watches are often traded at a discount and bought by collectors for restoration.

Poor: These watches will be non-functional and/or badly damaged. They even could have some missing parts, broken elements, visible water damage, or heavy corrosion. These are typically sold “for parts” or as a project.

Patina: This would refer to the dial and/or the hands of the watch that would have been discolored over time. The Patina is the result of the natural fading and ageing of these elements.

This terminology is used to highlight potential issues in the market or on the watch.

Frankenstein: This word would refer to a watch assembled from parts of different watches, often from the same brand but not originally intended to go together, creating a non-authentic or hybrid timepiece. These watches may combine components like dials, hands, or movements from various models or eras, which can affect their value and collectibility. Buyers should be cautious, as Frankenstein watches may not be recognized as authentic by purists or manufacturers.

Aftermarket: This would refer to non-original parts (e.g., diamonds, bezel, dial, etc) that were added to the original watch.

Service Dial / Service Hands: These would be brand-made original spare parts that have replaced the ones that the watch had when it first came out of production. This is usually done for a valid reason (a crack on the dial, a broken hand, etc...) by an authroized service center during the servicing and maintenance of the watch.

Homage: This would refer to the design of a watch that is heavily inspired by a precursor timepiece by another brand.

Counterfeit / Replica / Clone: These are just ways to indicate that the watch is a fake.

Overhalled: The movement of the watch has gone through a complete and full service, implying a complete disassembly, cleaning and reassembly before going through quality control tests. 

Water Ingress: This would be the water damage, that can be catastrophic if the water gets to the movement.

Retail (MSRP/RRP): The official manufacturer’s suggested retail price of a watch. The secondary market often trades above or below this figure.

Secondary Market: The resale market for pre-owned or unworn watches outside of brand boutiques or authorized dealers.

Over Retail / Under Retail: Describes whether a watch trades above or below its MSRP. Popular models often sell “over retail” due to scarcity in comparison to demand.

Grey / Parallel Market watches: These are Unworn watches sold outside the official distribution channels, usually at discounted prices. They are authentic but not from authorized dealers but rather through networks parallel to the official one.

Premium: This would be an additional amount paid for the watch due to high demand or scarcity. Premium watches are a number of models from a limited number of brands that are produced in quantities that are far lower than what the actual demand is, and therefore commanding a higher price on the secondary market. An official Authorized Dealer however is not supposed to apply any premium when they sell them to a client directly.

Discount: A reduction from the retail price that could be offered to clients to sweeten the deal. While almost never offered on popular models, it can be applied for less popular or overstocked models.

Spread: The difference between the price a dealer pays to acquire a watch and the price they resell it for. It is another way of saying Gross Margin.

Case / Head: It is the body of the watch that houses the movement. Usually made of steel, gold, titanium, or ceramic.

Bezel: It refers to the ring surrounding the watch dial on the outside of the watch and sitting on top of it. It may be fixed or rotating, plain or functional (such as a diver’s timing bezel).

Crystal: It is the transparent cover protecting the dial, usually made of sapphire in the case of modern luxury watches while for older/vintage timepieces it would be made of mineral glass, or acrylic. Some luxury brands could use it still when they do re-editions of older models as a signe of authenticity.

Crown: It is the knob used to wind the movement and set the time. When Screw-down, the crown adds water resistance.

Lugs: The protruding parts of the case where the strap or bracelet is attached. They usually are quite sharp and upon inspection, one could understand if the case of the watch has been polished or not, as their sharpness softens with multiple polishings.

Dial: The face of the watch, it is the flat surface displaying time and sometimes other functions. Variations in design and originality greatly affect value. In the case of vintage watches, the Dial's condition is primordial when it comes to retaining/losing value.

Hands: The pointers that indicate hours, minutes, and seconds. There are hundreds of different types with their own names and add quite a lot of character to the watch.

Indexes: These would be hour markers on the dial. They are either applied - stuck with glue - or painted directly on the dial. They also may carry within them some lumes, a luminiscent material that improves readability in poor lighting conditions.

Lume: That refers to the Luminescent material applied to hands or markers for visibility in the dark. Aging lume can develop patina and show signs of wear through grains or cracks. A ReLumed index or hand would refer to an element of the watch that has received a new coat of luminiscent material. While mostly harmless, it does impact negatively the overall value in the context of Vintage watches.

Bracelet / Strap: The band securing the watch to the wrist. Bracelets are usually metal; straps can be leather, rubber, or fabric.

Endlinks: The connecting pieces that secure the bracelet to the lugs. Solid endlinks are considered higher quality.

Buckle / Clasp: That is the group of small elements that make the closure mechanism for straps or bracelets. Deployant or Folding clasps provide added security.

Movement / Caliber: The internal mechanism or engine that powers the watch. Can be mechanical (manually wound or automatic) or quartz (batter powered).

Complications: These are the functions beyond basic timekeeping, such as chronographs, moonphase, GMT, or perpetual calendars. Some complications  - while not providing more information - can improve on the efficiency or accuracy of  the movement such as a Tourbillon or a Constant Force.

Beater: A solid and reliable watch that can be worn daily without concern for scratches or wear. In a collection, the Beater watches are those that get the most wrist time.

Grail Watch: Every collector has a few on their list. These would be the dream watches that are often rare or expensive. 

Hype Watch: A watch that is in extremely high demand, often with waiting lists and secondary prices above retail. They are relatively new as they get this status mostly because of the very high visibility they get through Social Media.

Flipper: That would be someone who buys watches from the Authrorized Dealers or the brands directly at the retail price, only to resell them quickly for profit.

Strap Monster: These are the watches that look good on a wide variety of strap styles. 

Desk Diver: This is a dive watch that never actually sees the ocean, and that is worn mainly as a style statement.

Frankenwatch / Frankenstein: This would be a watch assembled from parts of different origins. Selling a Frankenwatch without disclosure is highly dangerous for one's reputation.

Redial: A dial that has been repainted or restored. Collectors usually prefer original dials, even if aged.

Tropical dial: It refers to a black dial that has faded to brown tones due to humidity and UV exposure over decades. This phenomenon is treasured in pre-owned luxury vintage watches, such as Rolex Submariners, for its unique aesthetic. Even tropicalization boosts collectibility, but symmetry and authenticity are key evaluations